Fast and Furious
James Lucas James Lucas

Fast and Furious

Droz and Kelleghan blitz the Naked Edge in 37:40—the women’s speed record

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Legal For A Day
James Lucas James Lucas

Legal For A Day

With 100 DWS routes from 5.9 to 5.13c, the cliffs range from a relatively safe 30 feet tall to a scary 70 feet tall. There’s only one catch—deep water soloing at Summersville Lake is technically illegal.

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When Legends Die
James Lucas James Lucas

When Legends Die

“How can we respect the beliefs and sites of the indigenous peoples of this land while we continue to allow climbing at Hueco Tanks?” wrote Marilyn Rose Guida, a volunteer at the El Paso Archaeology Museum, in a March 2017 letter to the El Paso Times.

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Jailhouse Unlocked
James Lucas James Lucas

Jailhouse Unlocked

On the outskirts of Sonora, a sign for Saturday night strip shows at the a motel sits a hundred yards from one promoting Sunday morning service at the Sonora Cowboy Church. Nearby is the state conservatory, a jail. Meanwhile, those with a diehard obsession for climbing blaze past these disparate venues on their way to Jailhouse, one of America’s best, and until now “ secret,” sport crags.

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Ghosts, Magic, and Science
James Lucas James Lucas

Ghosts, Magic, and Science

A boring reality is more frightening than unknown possibilities, even dreadful ones. I want to live in a world of imagination, where a fifth force helps climbers ascend, where the impossible exists. I want to believe in ghosts, magic and science.

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Fall of Man
James Lucas James Lucas

Fall of Man

Sport Climbing and commitment at the Virgin River Gorge

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