Battling the Bubble
James Lucas James Lucas

Battling the Bubble

Maybe I could fit into the Boulder climbing scene—I just need to lose weight, run faster, and embrace the rules around the city. I needed to push harder to send the last little bit.

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Hard Times on the Moonboard
James Lucas James Lucas

Hard Times on the Moonboard

The climbing felt crimpy, powerful, and dynamic—all my weaknesses. I knew that the Moonboard would help me improve as a climber, even if I was just sending the warmups, and I liked bouldering with the Shrine Crew. But the Moonboard felt too hard, too overwhelming for me. I let the idea of climbing on a Moonboard, of joining this foreign club, percolate.

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Freerider: Alex Honnold’s Freesolo
James Lucas James Lucas

Freerider: Alex Honnold’s Freesolo

“SO STOKED. I just sent the proj!” Alex Honnold said in a voicemail from El Capitan on June 3. “Hiking down the East Ledges. Thanks for the support up here this season and, you know, just in general. I’m feeling pretty stoked out of my gourd.” That day, Honnold, 31, made the first free solo of a VI on El Capitan.

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Inflating Grades and Egos
James Lucas James Lucas

Inflating Grades and Egos

“How can you know such a grade with so few participants?” Dave Graham said of rating high-end problems. “It’s like an experiment with six control subjects.”

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The Importance of the Asterisk
James Lucas James Lucas

The Importance of the Asterisk

While my ascent was less than perfect, it was what I could do at the time. These asterisks provided opportunities to learn, though. As notes of truth, they showed me just how I could make mastery of climbing more important than the send.

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The Perils of Recreational Outrage
James Lucas James Lucas

The Perils of Recreational Outrage

When I polled my Facebook friends about what gives them recreational outrage, I received 110 responses. People mouthed off about everything from “Sprinter vans,” to people who “play music on ‘personal’ speakers for everyone to hear while hiking,” to “Climbing organizations that debate solutions to preventing destruction of outdoor spaces while simultaneously encouraging more people to start climbing,” to “kids warming up on my projects.”

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